A few designers in this European men’s season have spoken of the Underground as a benchmark, primarily due to the breadth and variety of humanity and self-expression on display there.
Luke and Lucie Meier didn’t mention the underground, but at a preview did talk about wanting to “celebrate the individual” with their fall collection for Jil Sander.
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“You miss all the characters around you because we’ve been separated from each other,” Luke Meier said on Zoom, referring to all the social downturns amid the waves of COVID-19 over the past two last years.
Elegance was the other word that came up repeatedly. “We think it’s important to present something that makes people feel good, that lifts them up,” said Luke, describing “a balanced masculine fit with something a little more sultry.”
Around a circular backdrop dominated by a giant glowing orb at the American Cathedral in Paris, Jil Sander’s autumnal figure is the kind of guy who wears his star sign embroidered on the sleeve of his woolen coat, or scrawled on his scarf in silk, and folds up his dress pants into stiff ankle boots with a silver plate instead of a spur.
The designer duo seem keen to temper the brand’s minimalist heritage with something warm and fuzzy – or vice versa – so they can throw a crochet choker over a severe buttonless jacket; temper the comfort of a fuzzy herringbone robe coat with a sleek leather flap that peeks out from underneath, or splash a mythological print on an otherwise austere oversized overcoat or sweater.
The clean, boxy cut stood out, especially when brightened by the shiny peak lapels of a tuxedo: sometimes satin, sometimes leather. We’re not dealing with a typical black-tie character here.
Launch Gallery: Jil Sander Men’s Fall 2022
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